Bob Welcome

Classic Car Chrome and Bright Work Maintenance



Posted: Saturday, July 15, 2006

by
Classic Car Trim Pty Ltd

Every classic car enthusiast likes to keep the chrome work and bright shiny pieces on their car shining like a new pin.

There are a number of ways to do this, but to maintain a high degree of quality you need to keep the “maintenance" up to it.

Maintenance you can perform

Because chrome and aluminium type tail light assemblies are porous they suck in moisture and exhaust emissions over time and become discoloured. As a result chrome steel bumpers and other parts will eventually rust.

As the word “porous" is the key here, you can also treat the chrome with “diesel" as it will penetrate into the chrome and after successive treatments it will have formed a protective barrier which will keep out moisture and exhaust gases.

Generally when bumpers are re-chromed is the best time to give them a good rub over with a wet diesel soaked rag, and thus start your maintenance program right from the word go.

After you have given these parts a number of treatments, you can also use other revitalising products, such as “Autosol". Autosol is like a white cream which you can add to your bright work with a clean rag. Leave it to dry off and then buff off with a clean dry rag. You will notice a nice shine.

Have you ever looked at a “Bull Dozer" where there are consistent diesel leaks. These areas are usually covered in dust which sticks to the diesel, but when you brush it away there is clean shiny metal underneath.

Condition of brightwork

If your bright work has already gone off a bit, you can basically stop further deterioration by using the diesel process and then top polishing.

However, on steel bumper bars which are already showing signs of bad rust, all you can do is hope that the diesel may prevent further rusting.

Sometimes there is a point of no return, but you will know when it has reached this stage.

Ongoing maintenance

Initially you must build up a barrier with successive applications of the diesel rag, but then you must also continue treatment each six months or so. This depends on the elements as well.

If you live by the seaside I would treat every 3 months. In an inland city with your car garaged, 6 months is good.

You must determine the treatment times yourself by gauging the results.

Rear Tail light Assemblies

Generally these types of assemblies on older cars were made of an aluminium type alloy metal which encouraged exhaust gases and water over time.

As a result they became cracked and lumpy.

Try treating these with the diesel process also to prevent further deterioration of the metal. However, once these pieces crack it is hard to stop them from cracking further.

It all depends on the condition of these parts now. The better condition when you start the better result you will get.

Inside of steel bumper bars

You should treat the inside of your steel bumpers also as they will rust from the inside out. Paint them with a good kill rust paint or leave them bare and wipe with diesel or fish oil regularly.

Once again the regular maintenance will win in the end.

Stainless Steel trim pieces

When restoring my own classic cars I have found that the finer types of steel wool give the best results.

The trims come up very smooth and shiny. Then an application of "Autosol" or your favorite polishing cream will finish it off nicely.


I hope these tips will help enthusiasts to keep their classic cars shining for many years to come.

Regards

Bob Welcome

http://www.classic-car-restorer-and-trader.com




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